Astonishing...

Written in Munich, Germany, am 25.08.2010

Sun is shining brightly this morning, as the ferry ship enters the port of Genoa. The journey from Tanger has taken three calm days. Time to let the deep experiences of Morocco settle a bit, and time to prepare for returning to Europe. The first impression on the streets is surprising: it is old, our continent! A true contrast to Morocco, where every third person is younger than 15 years and only 4% of the population is older than 65 years. Astonishing, how the difference can be seen already just on the street. I walk unhurried along the harbour promenade, give myself the time to arrive and enjoy an extensive lunch break in the park.

Surfing Couches
After lunch I contact Alessandro, a Couchsurfer. Couchsurfing is an international network of people, who offer each other a couch that means sleeping accomodation. Money is not taken; the joy of sharing is enough as reward. The old tradition of hospitality has arrived to the internet age. Many people, who offer a couch, have already been hosted themselves somewhere else around the world. Such as 28 year old Ale, who turns out to be a perfect host. From our meeting point in the harbour we walk together through the old town to his flat. “It used to be our family apartment”, he tells me, “but now I live alone here. I have enough space to accommodate people, so I can return a little bit and maintain the spirit of Couchsurfing.”

Ale is quite busy at this moment, so he just leaves the key and the computer to me for the day, as he goes to work the next morning. One, who has once enjoyed such trustfulness in advance, will never have the idea to exploit it. I think it is just this inter-personal trust, which holds our open and lively societies together. Let's cultivate it! During the next days we get to know each other: as we go for a nice cold beer together in the old harbour, or as we enjoy a dinner at home, when Ale cooks for me and two other Couchsurfers some delicious guacamole and pasta. No wonder Ale is chef on a sailing yacht!

With such a warm welcome, my start in Italy is easy and joyful. Logistics have been successful as well, because some pre-ordered mail has arrived in time at the house of the parents of a friend of a friend: a new tent (thanks to MSR!), new books (thanks to Amazon!), new shoe soles (thanks to GEA!) and new hiking socks, a delayed birthday present (thanks to Dad!). What else would you need for being happy?

Buddha's way
Before I start walking again, I would like to meet Giulio Cesare Giacobbe. He was professor of oriental psychology and philosophy at the University of Genoa. Since his retirement he focuses on writing books with nice titles such as “How to become a Buddha in five weeks” or “How to stop brain wanking and enjoy your life instead”. Thereby, he approaches oriental sageness with a great portion of humour and extracts, what everybody can use for a satisfying life. I want to know more about it. And, surprisingly enough, I really catch him in Genoa, where he does not reside very often. He invites me the next morning to the old harbour, where he lives on a small sailing vessel.

The croissants, which I have brought for breakfast, I need to eat alone, because the professor prefers white wine for our informal chat. I have imagined him differently, the expert of Buddhist philosophy. In black jeans and black polo shirt he neither looks like a professor nor somehow enlightened. Also his approach is by no means spiritual, but realistic to the core. “Look”, he explains, “in fact, the teachings of Buddha are not a religion or a spiritual search of an inner god, but a psychological way to get rid of our sufferings. All we have to do is to accept reality as it is and to live with its uncertainty.” So far I agree with the professor, and he continues: “It is our faulty perception of reality which makes us suffer. All of which occurs in our head, is not real. Our mind and our thoughts do not have a self-contained existence, but are a function of our brain.” “Also our consciousness?”, I inquire, coming to one of the crucial questions of neuroscience. “Yes, also the consciousness.” Now I cannot agree anymore, because the materialistic explanation of consciousness has its hitches, and not to mention, the miracle of consciousness is not clarified at all.

Despite many a differences of opinion we discuss animatedly the whole morning and I am happy about some new insights. Astonishing: even 2500 years after Buddha one can debate excellently about his findings! The professor also knows some interesting facts about the history of the town, when the Genovese were the greatest seamen of the world. “Fast food”, he tells me, as we close our conversation in a famous takeaway in the harbour at lunchtime, “is not an invention of the Americans, but existed here already in middle age for the busy dock workers.” I smile and enjoy the fried sardines. With a glass of white wine.

Dandering in Liguria
With the best weather – or more precisely at scorching heat – I let the harbour of Genoa fall behind me the next day. I plan to hike along the coast down to La Spezia. That means a deviation of more than a week, though, but the famous “Cinqueterre“ allures me. Already from the ferryboat I have noticed the moutainous contures of the Appennines, correspondingly all the way along the coast there is a lot of up and down. Oh yeah, memories of the Canary islands are coming up...But the solution is easy: the more challenging the trail and the temperature, the slower I get. After all, I am not in a hurry (ah, did I say, I want to go home?) and the deep blue gravel beaches tempt to cool down feet and head. Besides that, the soccer world cup is running. Great skill and time is demanded to be always at the right place in time, in order to watch some matches.

The hike along the coast is fabulous. Although many townspeople from Milano swarm to the coast in summer, the tourist business has resisted constructing huge hotel complexes. Instead, the vacationers spread into countless little pensions and hotels, which lie amidst the picturesque villages. Camogli is one of the most charming spots. The old town starts right after the cosy beach, which is bounded on one side by a handsome church directly at the water. Along the promenade coffee shops, restaurants and ice cream parlours invite to linger, but they are never obtrusive or tasteless, but likable and diversified. Gelati, gelati! What else would you need for being happy?

One day in Chiavari, some villages ahead, I sit in the park for lunch. I am glad about the pack of honey wafers, which I just got as a present in the local organic food store. On the bench in front of me sits an elder man, who I offer a wafer. We start a little conversation – as it happens so often on the road. Antonio is from England, many years he has been coming with his wife to Italy, where he appreciates culture and art of living. I tell him from my hike and my experiences with a simple life. “Yes”, he says, “I have watched you, how pleasurably you enjoyed the piece of cheese with bread before. Just as the Italians, that's exactly, what I like so much about them!” Before his wife arrives to pick him up for lunch he comes over with a 20 Euros bill. “Here, for your way. All the best and have a safe journey home!” Astonishing, how a small gesture can lead to such a large act of big-heartedness! Beautiful, no?

Turning into north
In the town of La Spezia I leave the coast and I jump into the mountains. Fantastic! Eight days in a row I only walk on hiking trails. In Picaenza the Appennines stay behind me and the Po plane spreads out in front. This is a less interesting trekking region, but compensated by blistering heat and unbearable mosquitoes. From Crema, the large river Serio takes me to the nice city of Bergamo on the southern edge of the Alps. I am keen for a break, but my local friends cannot receive me, because their child was just born with my arrival. This has happened twice on my hike...so be wary of the wandering stork!

The opportunity is good for Plan B: to visit a pair of friends in Songavazzo, as I have hoped anyway. This small village is located up the Serio river valley in the mountains. We are glad to see each other again, and to my big delight, Isabella and Marco pick me up for a couple of days. Both of them are a big inspiration to me. Instead of chasing careers and big money, they have decided to live a life near nature. Isabella gave up employment totally in order to cultivate a field, which she took at rent with Marco from the local commune.

Self-made Woman
“When I was younger I was angry about our society, which uses so many plastic products without thinking about the consequences”, reports Isabella. “Then I realized that I cannot change anything with my anger. Because one who wants to change the world needs to have the courage to open the heart and let the light shine out. It is the positive energy, I obtain with my lifestyle and the work with the plants, which radiates on others and 'contaminates' them.” Infected by this philosophy I help on the field next day, where fruits, vegetables and herbs grow. Plenty of work, but rewarding. Isabellas vegetarian dishes are mouth-watering. There is almost nothing which is not self-made. She also produces detergent, soap and a variety of natural remedies on her own. Once again, I am deeply astonished.

Approaching Home
After Bergamo it gets really mountainous: I have to cross the Alps again. Over the Bergamascan Alps and the Valmalenco valley I reach Switzerland. One who has not had any ideas about the beauty of the Engerdin valley, would have been impressed as I am: Idyllic lakes almost 2000 metres over sea level, surrounded by vast chains of summits. Simply marvellous! But then the weather turns, and black clouds are gathering. I am setting up the tent for the night near the Lake Sils, when the rain arrives. The following 30 hours it keeps on raining non-stop, that's why I leave the tent only for getting and passing water the next day. A slow-going day, but after the tiring hike I have needed a break anyway. On the summits it may be snowing, but in my sleeping bag I rest comfortably.

After the towns of Davos and Klosters I quickly approach the Austrian boarder. As I cross it at the so-called “Swiss gate” after almost a year, a flood of assorted emotions comes up. Delight and happiness about home coming, mixed with sadness about the fact, that this great journey will have an end some day. But above all, I perceive a strong feeling of thankfulness again for all the outstanding experiences and encounters I have had. Still I am often blown away by the magic of nature, the heartiness of the people or the incomparable feeling of freedom. Yes, this is the intensity of my hike, even after such a long time. Astonishing? I personally don't think so.

See you soon at home, Reinhold.

Some Impressions